New Hollywood at the SLS Hotel

On Monday, February 22nd, 2010

0 Comments | By Neal Turnage

If you prefer an aesthetic that leans toward the distinctively whimsical—and who in LA doesn’t? —then proceed immediately to check-in at the SLS Hotel. Located on La Cienega Blvd., intersecting the shiny veneer of Beverly Hills and the frolic of West Hollywood, the hotel strikes a beguiling balance between both.

It all begins with a Hollywood worthy red carpet entry. Designer Philippe Starck, that certain Frenchman with that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to mixing highbrow design with quotidian comfort, wants every guest to feel like a star. While Starck’s vision is always one to elicit ogles, it is never one to prohibit a good, old-fashioned plunking down, kicking off the shoes, loosening the tie and feeling right at home.

This is not accomplished at the SLS without drama, noir-like corridors, splashes of primary colors and black curtains. Yet juxtaposed with elements you imagine might populate Ted Turner’s Montana ranch house, i.e. moose antlers, comfy couches, fireplaces and throw rugs, the effect is welcoming. Oh, and did we say that the same goes for the rooftop pool as well?

Perhaps not the throw rugs, but some well “worn” furniture, lamps and artwork turn that most ubiquitous LA tableaux into territory that even the most overworked executive can’t resist. And for the clear, sunny and 75-degree weather that demand poolside meetings? There are plenty of tented areas deck- side just for that.

SLS has taken cuisine and, just like the design, put a few ordinary ingredients into a shaker, stirred and mixed, daring to depart from the standard fine dining and casual restaurant combo.

For the adventurous there is the Bazaar, truly a place that invokes all the implications of its name. Aside from Moss, a haughty yet accessible custom-curated shopping area, there is The Patisserie for sweets, and the star of the show, the Bazaar by José Andrés. This is Spanish food bold and imaginative in scope, tingling and sublime in taste. Ottoman carrot fritters, lush savory morsels that rest atop a bed of thick pistachio cream, are A Must. A salad of Brussels sprout leaves with warm lemony foam makes you wonder why you don’t eat this vegetable more often. And for brunch, eggs done in so many different ways, (although we’re partial to the 12 mini eggs, sunny side up, Huevos a la Cubana “Andy Garcia”), you’ll want to try them all. Seafood, meats and ham tapas veer toward the unusual, Japanese tacos, or the Hilly Cheesesteak, for instance, and plates are small enough so you may try several dishes sans overindulgence.

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